There has been much confusion recently about how natural (or organic) a skin care and/or product line really is. Some lines used to have "certified organic" on their labels and now they just call themselves "organic". In the last two years we have seen dozens of skin care lines come out claiming "all natural", "botanical", "organic", etc. With the huge amounts of products available to spa owners, technicians and consumers we are becoming very dependant on what the manufacturer or the rep has to say. Unfortunately, I have found that most skin care developers will claim they are the best and only tell you what they think you want to hear. In a recent search for Certified Organic products, I found it was difficult to navigate this topic and next to impossible to find straight answers. I am still confused about the terms manufacturers get away with, but I've learned a lot, made my own conclusions and have decided to share. After all, what good is all this info if I can not share it with people that might be pondering the same questions I was? So here is a summary of my conclusions and findings.
Let's start with the term "natural". This is the most dangerous of the different terms used because it is not regulated at all. Based on government label requirements, to label a product "natural" means that "an ingredient has not been significantly altered from it's original state, nor has anything been removed from it (with the exception of water), nor have other substances been added to it." Products that are labeled "natural" might contain genetically modified organisms (GMOs), be grown with synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers in addition to the possibility of it containing many other ingredients that could be synthetic or artificial. A 100% natural skin and/or body care product would have to be preserved with natural ingredients, such as essential oils and antioxidants. Most of the few products available today that are really natural are produced in small quantities and available for Retail only. When you are evaluating a Professional Skin Care line that claims to be "100% natural" or "natural", ask the product manufacturer or rep, "What ingredients are used to preserve this product and in what quantities? You will then be able to determine how natural the product really is.
For the most part, products need something in them to preserve them or you have no shelf life. Products entirely without preservatives must be manufactured in a sterilized environment. They must be refrigerated immediately after opening and the production process is very time consuming and costly.
Looking for information on labeling using the term "organic", I found an article published by MSNBC.com in June 2005 that stated the USDA eliminated the seal of "USDA Organic" for their personal care products and cosmetics. Apparently when they created the seal in 2002 their goal was to certify the organic claims made by food producers not skin and body products, so away it went. I also found a chart that states the following:
- For the package to say "100% Organic" the product must contain 100% certified organic ingredients.
- If it says "Organic" then 95% of ingredients must be certified organic.
- For the term "Made with Organic" then at least 70% of the product's ingredients must be certified organic.
The problem is that because USA does not regulate and/or certify the manufacturing of Organic Skin Care products, you could have a company using packaging that states they are organic without really being organic. Confusing, isn't it?
Canada and France (and a few other countries), however, have government agencies that certify skin care products as "organic" and they have specific guidelines and conditions for these products to meet before they grant the certifications. This is where "Certified Organic" comes in. This term means that an ingredient and/or product has been grown and produced according to strict government-enforced organic agricultural guidelines and verified by an approved third-party certifying organization. Farmers are usually required to have inspections of their fields and processing facilities by the third party certifying agency. Periodic testing is also done on the soil, plants and water to ensure the standards are met. The use of synthetic chemicals, fertilizers, pesticides or GMOs, irradiation, sewage sludge is prohibited.
Currently, France has the strictest program in the world for certifying organic products. They have approved a company called Ecocert to control and certify organic labels, such as organic food and the Cosmebio label which is organic skin care. The goal of Cosmebio is to guarantee the consumer that he/she will purchase a natural product. The Cosmebio label means that the ingredients are from natural origin and issued form organic farming; without GMO's, mineral oils, silicons, parabens, chemical preservatives, animal contents and using non polluting process for manufacturing. It provides the consumer with all the details from raw material to finished good. The Cosmebio requirements are then certified by Ecocert. Ecocert certifies that the authorized product is a truly "natural" skin care and it allows the use of one of their "Eco" label or the "Bio" label. The "Bio" label is more difficult to obtain.
Since there is no regulation for "natural" labeling, my preference is for products labeled "organic". However, since France has such strict guidelines in their certification process, I have decided those are the only "Certified Organic" products I will trust. I even found one skin care product line that has the "Bio" label and started carrying two of their products at my online store, ZYS Boutique (www.zysboutique.com). Check it out, these products are good for you and the environment and I will be adding more soon. You can find more information and the full line at www.luvalla.com
Back to research and knowledge, to figure out how true the claims of a particular product are I recommend you to use www.cosmeticdatabase.com. This resource provides you with a way to investigate every single ingredient listed on a product label. It gives you a grading on how harmful that ingredient might be in addition to any studies, side effects, complaints and list of existing products where you find the ingredient in question.
How do you apply all this information? Why should you be concerned about it? If you are concerned about what you use on your self and your clients, this info should be helpful. If your spa's concept is organic, natural and/or eco-friendly, you have to make sure you know exactly what you are using and selling. Did you now that 60% of what we put on our skin is absorbed into our body. I want to make sure that what I put on my skin, and what I recommend to my clients is safe enough and it helps preserve our environment.
If you have any comments or questions please send them. If you found a 100% natural professional line and/or 100% Certified Organic professional line do send me the information.
Wishing you success in your endeavors and sending blessings your way!
Stay tuned!
Written by Zahira J Coll, all rights reserved, the content of this article, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the author. The author will like to express her gratitude to L'uvalla, MSNBC.com, DSA and the Organic Trade Organization for information and research materials provided for this article.
Very good website.
Posted by: Skin Care Tips | July 31, 2007 at 11:29 PM
Excellent information, thank you!
Posted by: Judy | August 06, 2007 at 06:21 PM
The importance of keeping your skin healthy can't be overemphasized. It's the body's first defense against disease and infection, and it protects your internal organs from injuries. It is, in fact, the largest organ in the body. Skin Care Treatment helps to your body temperature and prevents excess fluid loss, and it also helps your body remove excess water and salt. Most women strive to keep their skin looking youthful. http://skin-care-treatment-natural-tips.blogspot.com
Posted by: Skin Care | June 13, 2008 at 03:06 AM